Friday, December 19, 2014

Hey All How You Doing? Me I am a Little Better Now!

As I believe I have gotten the Site at Sinbadthesailorman Dot Com under control.

Here is what the deal was my Hub and site “Sinbad The Sailor Man Dot Com” was acting up and when I put a ticket in I found out It has been UN supported for the last Year! But Now what is left of it and still up and working is at Sinbadthesailorman Dot Info.

I am currently Rebuilding the PW&OSfStSM Site at a WordPress Themed Site. It will still be Hosted at Fatcow.com and It will have the Original Dot Com address Sinbadthesailorman.com.

The Dot Info should be Up but, It may not be Fully Functioning not even as well as It did Yesterday! And It will decline in functionality as time goes by. There is nothing I can do about It as of today Its a third party website builder for Fatcow and It is being phased out! But like a way Back Site you'll be able to see what It is and was.

This Post will be a site wide Posting and you will see It at all my sites and on my FaceBook pages, Twitter.com, and wherever else I can think about getting It up and then remember to do so.

 The New Wordpress Theme is Visible


But appears nothing like a Wordpress theme and It Won't for a good week and a half most likely. But the Addresses of both sites are showing up as Up and they are something and Bits and Pieces of both. They are not completely restored and the Old Website won't be to my understanding as I mentioned above here. So this is why I am putting this Info Out too you all. So you don't think I built a bunch of totally useless crap and slapped It up trying to make a buck.


Well I got to Run because I am under the Gun Here and I need to try and save the Christmas rush earnings ability If I can If Not Oh well It Looks like Easter and St Valentines Day will be my next chance to earn with Amazon.com and my other Affiliates.


Stuff Happens and It will Happen When You Least Expect It! Especially If You Don't Stay On Top of Things!




TTFN
CYA Later Taters
Donnie/Sinbad The Sailor Man

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Green Evolutions~ "Aquaponics Cantaloupes"



Published on Jun 15, 2012
 
Quick look at the Cantaloups... We are using hammocks to support the fruit as we are growing them vertically on a trellis...
 I am trying a new intro and will be experimenting with some editing later on to try and make the my videos more interesting...
I just watched John over at http://www.growingyourgreens.com/ and picked up a few tips on how to make a more enjoyable video for you to watch.
 Cantaloupe (also canteloupe, cantaloup, muskmelon (India), mushmelon, muskmelon, rockmelon, sweet melon, Persian melon, spanspek (South Africa), or Garma گرما) refers to a variety of Cucumis melo, a species in the family Cucurbitaceae.

Cantaloupes range in size from 500 g to 5 kg (1 to 10 lb).

Originally, cantaloupe referred only to the non-netted, orange-fleshed melons of Europe. However, in more recent usage, it has come to mean any orange-fleshed melon (C. melo). Cantaloupe is the most popular variety of melon in the United States.[2]

 
Cantaloupe
Scientific classification
Kingdom: Plantae
(unranked): Angiosperms
(unranked): Eudicots
(unranked): Rosids
Order: Cucurbitales
Family: Cucurbitaceae
Genus: Cucumis
Species: C. melo
Subspecies: C. melo subsp. melo
Variety: C. melo var. cantalupensis
Trinomial name
Cucumis melo var. cantalupensis[1]
Naudin
Synonyms
Cucumis melo var. reticulatus Naudin[1]

Etymology

The name is derived, via French, from the Italian Cantalupo which was formerly a papal county seat near Rome.

Tradition has it that this is where it was first cultivated in Europe, on its introduction from Ancient Armenia.[3] Its first known usage in English dates from 1739 in The Gardeners Dictionary Vol. II by Scottish botanist Philip Miller (1691–1771).[3]

 

Origin

The cantaloupe originated in Iran, India and Africa;[4] it was first cultivated in Iran some 5000 years ago and in Greece and Egypt some 4000 years ago.[5]

 

Cantaloupes by region


Macro photo of the skin of a North American cantaloupe

The European cantaloupe is lightly ribbed (sutured), with a gray-green skin that looks quite different from that of the North American cantaloupe.[6]

The North American cantaloupe, common in the United States, Mexico, and in some parts of Canada, is actually a muskmelon, a different variety of Cucumis melo, and has a net-like (or reticulated) skin covering.
It is a round melon with firm, orange, moderately sweet flesh and a thin, reticulated, light-brown rind.[6] 
Varieties with redder and yellower flesh exist, but are not common in the U.S. market.[citation needed]

 

Production and uses

 


Cantaloupes on display in a fruit store


Cantaloupes on sale in Japan for 2800 yen each (Roughly US$33.28 - based on currency rates September 2010)

Because they are descended from tropical plants and tend to require warm temperatures throughout a relatively long growing period, cantaloupes grown in temperate climates are frequently started indoors for 14 days or longer before being transplanted outdoors.

Cantaloupes are often picked, and shipped, before fully ripening. Postharvest practices include treatment with a sodium hypochlorite or bleach wash to prevent mold and Salmonella growth. This treatment, because it can mask the melon's musky aroma, can make it difficult for the purchaser to judge the relative quality of different cantaloupes.

Cantaloupe is normally eaten as a fresh fruit, as a salad, or as a dessert with ice cream or custard. Melon pieces wrapped in prosciutto are a familiar antipasto.

Because the surface of a cantaloupe can contain harmful bacteria—in particular, Salmonella [7]—it is always a good idea to wash and scrub a melon thoroughly before cutting and consumption. The fruit should be refrigerated for less than three days after cutting to prevent risk of Salmonella or other bacterial pathogens.[8]

A mouldy cantaloupe in a Peoria, Illinois market in 1941 was found to contain the best and highest quality penicillin, after a worldwide search.[9]


Melons, cantaloupe, raw

 Rockmelon from Australia
and its cross-section
Nutritional value per 100 g (3.5 oz)
Energy 141 kJ (34 kcal)
Carbohydrates 8.16 g
- Sugars 7.86 g
- Dietary fiber 0.9 g
Fat 0.19 g
Protein 0.84 g
Vitamin A equiv. 169 μg (21%)
- beta-carotene 2020 μg (19%)
- lutein and zeaxanthin 26 μg
Thiamine (vit. B1) 0.041 mg (4%)
Riboflavin (vit. B2) 0.019 mg (2%)
Niacin (vit. B3) 0.734 mg (5%)
Pantothenic acid (B5) 0.105 mg (2%)
Vitamin B6 0.072 mg (6%)
Folate (vit. B9) 21 μg (5%)
Choline 7.6 mg (2%)
Vitamin C 36.7 mg (44%)
Vitamin K 2.5 μg (2%)
Calcium 9 mg (1%)
Iron 0.21 mg (2%)
Magnesium 12 mg (3%)
Manganese 0.41 mg (20%)
Phosphorus 15 mg (2%)
Potassium 267 mg (6%)
Sodium 16 mg (1%)
Zinc 0.18 mg (2%)
Link to USDA Database entry
Percentages are roughly approximated
using US recommendations for adults.
Source: USDA Nutrient Database

 

Source:Wikipedia.org

 

Somebody Come and Play Today! Earn as You Learn, Grow as You Go!

The Man Inside the Man
from
Sinbad the Sailor Man
A
JMK's Production


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CYA Later Taters!
Thanks for stopping by.

Donnie/Sinbad the Sailor Man

P.S. Sweet Sixteen My Breakout Year's Hottest and Fastest Growing Biz Op? Do You Want In? If You Do! Click Here and Sign Up!


How to Build Your Own Strawberry Towers





 


Uploaded on Jan 2, 2011

http://www.BigelowBrook.com/donate
This is an instructional video on how to build your own growing tower for use in aquaponic or hydroponic systems. 

Details about Expanded Shale growing media can be found at http://www.ExpandedShale.com . For more info, see my blog at http://web4deb.blogspot.com or http://www.BigelowBrook.com Also "like" us on Facebook at http://www.Facebook.com/BigelowBrook


The garden strawberry (or simply strawberry /ˈstrɔːb(ə)ri/; Fragaria × ananassa) is a widely grown hybrid species of the genus Fragaria (collectively known as the strawberries).

It is cultivated worldwide for its fruit. The fruit (which is not a botanical berry, but an aggregate accessory fruit) is widely appreciated for its characteristic aroma, bright red color, juicy texture, and sweetness.

It is consumed in large quantities, either fresh or in such prepared foods as preserves, fruit juice, pies, ice creams, milkshakes, and chocolates. Artificial strawberry aroma is also widely used in many industrial food products.

The garden strawberry was first bred in Brittany, France, in the 1750s via a cross of Fragaria virginiana from eastern North America and Fragaria chiloensis, which was brought from Chile by Amédée-François Frézier in 1714.[1]

Cultivars of Fragaria × ananassa have replaced, in commercial production, the woodland strawberry (Fragaria vesca), which was the first strawberry species cultivated in the early 17th century.[2]

Technically, the strawberry is an aggregate accessory fruit, meaning that the fleshy part is derived not from the plant's ovaries but from the receptacle that holds the ovaries.[3]

Each apparent "seed" (achene) on the outside of the fruit is actually one of the ovaries of the flower, with a seed inside it.[3]


Garden strawberry
Fragaria × ananassa
Garden strawberries, grown in California
Scientific classification
Kingdom: Plantae
(unranked): Angiosperms
(unranked): Eudicots
(unranked): Rosids
Order: Rosales
Family: Rosaceae
Subfamily: Rosoideae
Genus: Fragaria
Species: F. × ananassa
Binomial name
Fragaria × ananassa
Duchesne


History

The first garden strawberry was grown in France during the late 18th century.[2]

Prior to this, wild strawberries and cultivated selections from wild strawberry species were the common source of the fruit.

The strawberry fruit was mentioned in ancient Roman literature in reference to its medicinal use.

The French began taking the strawberry from the forest to their gardens for harvest in the 1300s. Charles V, France's king from 1364 to 1380, had 1,200 strawberry plants in his royal garden.

 In the early 1400s western European monks were using the wild strawberry in their illuminated manuscripts. The strawberry is found in Italian, Flemish, German art, and English miniatures.[citation needed] The entire strawberry plant was used to treat depressive illnesses.

By the 1500s references of cultivation of the strawberry became more common.

People began using it for its supposed medicinal properties and botanists began naming the different species.

In England the demand for regular strawberry farming had increased by the mid-1500s.

Instructions for growing and harvesting strawberries showed up in writing in 1578.

By the end of the 1500s three European species had been cited; F. vesca, F. moschata, and F. viridis. The garden strawberry was transplanted from the forests and then the plants would be propagated asexually by cutting off the runners.

Two subspecies of F. vesca were identified; F. sylvestris alba and F. sylvestris semperflorens. The introduction of F. virginiana from Eastern North America to Europe in the 1600s is an important part of history because this species gave rise to the modern strawberry.

The new species gradually spread through the continent and did not become completely appreciated until the end of the 18th century.



Closeup of a healthy, red strawberry
Fragaria × ananassa 'Gariguette,' a cultivar grown in southern France

When a French excursion journeyed to Chile in 1712, it introduced the strawberry plant with female flowers that resulted in the common strawberry that we have today.

The Mapuche and Huilliche Indians of Chile cultivated the female strawberry species until 1551 when the Spanish came to conquer the land.

In 1765, a European explorer recorded the cultivation of F. chiloensis, the Chilean strawberry.

At first introduction to Europe, the plants grew vigorously but produced no fruit.

It was discovered in 1766 that the female plants could only be pollinated by plants that produced large fruit; F. moschata, F. virginiana, and F. ananassa.

This is when the Europeans became aware that plants had the ability to produce male-only or female-only flowers.

As more large-fruit producing plants were cultivated the Chilean strawberry slowly decreased in population in Europe, except for around Brest where the Chilean strawberry thrived.

The decline of the Chilean strawberry was caused by F. ananassa.[4]



Strawberries on display at Chelsea Flower Show, 2009


Cultivation

Strawberry cultivars vary widely in size, color, flavor, shape, degree of fertility, season of ripening, liability to disease and constitution of plant.[5]

Some vary in foliage, and some vary materially in the relative development of their sexual organs.

In most cases, the flowers appear hermaphroditic in structure, but function as either male or female.[6]

For purposes of commercial production, plants are propagated from runners and, in general, distributed as either bare root plants or plugs.

Cultivation follows one of two general models—annual plasticulture,[7] or a perennial system of matted rows or mounds.[8]
A small amount of strawberries are produced in greenhouses during the off season.[9]


A large strawberry field with plastic covering the earth around the strawberry plants.
A field using the plasticulture method

The bulk of modern commercial production uses the plasticulture system.

In this method, raised beds are formed each year, fumigated, and covered with plastic to prevent weed growth and erosion.

Plants, usually obtained from northern nurseries, are planted through holes punched in this covering, and irrigation tubing is run underneath. Runners are removed from the plants as they appear, in order to encourage the plants to put most of their energy into fruit development.

At the end of the harvest season, the plastic is removed and the plants are plowed into the ground.[7][10]

Because strawberry plants more than a year or two old begin to decline in productivity and fruit quality, this system of replacing the plants each year allows for improved yields and denser plantings.[7][10]

However, because it requires a longer growing season to allow for establishment of the plants each year, and because of the increased costs in terms of forming and covering the mounds and purchasing plants each year, it is not always practical in all areas.[10]

The other major method, which uses the same plants from year to year growing in rows or on mounds, is most common in colder climates.[7][8]

It has lower investment costs, and lower overall maintenance requirements.[8] Yields are typically lower than in plasticulture.[8]

A third method uses a compost sock. Plants grown in compost socks have been shown to produce significantly higher oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC), flavonoids, anthocyanins, fructose, glucose, sucrose, malic acid, and citric acid than fruit produced in the black plastic mulch or matted row systems.[11]

Similar results in an earlier 2003 study conducted by the US Dept of Agriculture, at the Agricultural Research Service, in Beltsville Maryland, confirms how compost plays a role in the bioactive qualities of two strawberry cultivars.[12]

Strawberries are often grouped according to their flowering habit.[5][13]

Traditionally, this has consisted of a division between "June-bearing" strawberries, which bear their fruit in the early summer and "ever-bearing" strawberries, which often bear several crops of fruit throughout the season.[13]

 Research published in 2001 showed that strawberries actually occur in three basic flowering habits: short-day, long-day, and day-neutral. These refer to the day-length sensitivity of the plant and the type of photoperiod that induces flower formation. Day-neutral cultivars produce flowers regardless of the photoperiod.[14]

Strawberries may also be propagated by seed, though this is primarily a hobby activity, and is not widely practiced commercially.

A few seed-propagated cultivars have been developed for home use, and research into growing from seed commercially is ongoing.[15]

Seeds (achenes) are acquired either via commercial seed suppliers, or by collecting and saving them from the fruit.

Strawberries can also be grown indoors in strawberry pots.


Pests

Around 200 species of pests are known to attack strawberries both directly and indirectly.[22] These pests include slugs, moths, fruit flies, chafers, strawberry root weevils, strawberry thrips, strawberry sap beetles, strawberry crown moth, mites, aphids, and others.[22][23]

The caterpillars of a number of species of Lepidoptera feed on strawberry plants.

Diseases

Strawberry plants can fall victim to a number of diseases.[24] The leaves may be infected by powdery mildew, leaf spot (caused by the fungus Sphaerella fragariae), leaf blight (caused by the fungus Phomopsis obscurans), and by a variety of slime molds.[24] The crown and roots may fall victim to red stele, verticillium wilt, black root rot, and nematodes.[24] The fruits are subject to damage from gray mold, rhizopus rot, and leather rot.[24] To prevent root-rotting, strawberries should be planted every four to five years in a new bed, at a different site.[25]
The plants can also develop disease from temperature extremes during winter.[24] When watering strawberries, advice has been given to water only the roots and not the leaves, as moisture on the leaves encourages growth of fungus.[26]



Fresh Strawberries from La Trinidad, Benguet, Philippines


Strawberries are popular and rewarding plants to grow in the domestic environment, be it for consumption or exhibition purposes, almost anywhere in the world. The best time to plant is in late summer or spring. Plant in full sun or dappled shade, and in somewhat sandy soil. The addition of manure and a balanced fertilizer aids strong growth. Alternatively they can be planted in pots or special planters using compost.

Domestic cultivation


Garden strawberry flower

Picking home-grown garden strawberries
Moreover, protection must be provided against slugs and snails which attack the ripe fruit. The fruit matures in midsummer and should be picked when fully ripe — that is, the fruit is a uniform bright red colour. The selection of different varietes can extend the season in both directions.[28] Numerous cultivars have been selected for consumption and for exhibition purposes. The following cultivars have gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit:-
Propagation is by runners, which can be pegged down to encourage them to take root,[35] or cut off and placed in a new location. Established plants should be replaced every three years, or sooner if there are signs of disease.
When propagating strawberries, one should avoid using the same soil or containers that were previously used for strawberry cultivation. After cultivating strawberries, rotating to another culture is advisable, because diseases that attack one species might not attack another.[36]

Source: Wikipedia.org

Somebody Come and Play Today! Earn as You Learn, Grow as You Go!

The Man Inside the Man
from
Sinbad the Sailor Man
A
JMK's Production


Share this page




TTFN
CYA Later Taters!
Thanks for stopping by.

Donnie/Sinbad the Sailor Man

P.S. Have you been looking for a guide to strawberries? Well Here it is. To check it out. Click Here!*

Click Image

Automated Bell Siphon~ "For Flood and Drain Grow Beds"



 

Published on Dec 25, 2012
 
Website: http://www.facebook.com/OSPESustainab...
Global site: http://www.facebook.com/OpenSourcePro...

This is Sustainable Food's method for building an aquaponics Automated Bell Siphon and describes what it is, how it works, and how to build one,

Please Like & Share the website and global collaborative site, and hopefully more people will join so we can all work together to make the best system for food abundance as possible! 

This is a fully open-source project, so I advocate anyone and everyone taking these designs for personal use, sharing with other people, and, even help to improve the system so we're all always using the most up-to-date, efficient, and optimal design for growing any size Sustainable Food aquaponics system.




Somebody Come and Play Today! Earn as You Learn, Grow as You Go!

The Man Inside the Man
from
Sinbad the Sailor Man
A
JMK's Production


Share this page





TTFN
CYA Later Taters!
Thanks for stopping by.

Donnie/Sinbad the Sailor Man

P.S. Sweet Sixteen My Breakout Year's Hottest and Fastest Growing Biz Op? Do You Want In? If You Do! Click Here and Sign Up!
 
 

DIY Venturi~ " A Few Easy Builds for Aquaponics, Aquaculture, or Hydroponics"


Published on Nov 1, 2013

I really like the idea of aerating the fish tank by venturi to save some coin & help make the system quieter.. A mate shared an idea with me for a unit he had been working on & was happy with...

I decided to have a crack at his idea along with a few others to see which I thought would work the best for our set up...

I was most pleased with the results & ended up going with the "Bear Unit".. I have had one in the aquaponic fish tank for over 2 weeks now with no issues & have plans to add another to a moving bed bio filter that will be added to the system soon...

Was also very pleased with the off the shelf unit purchased from Earthan group.. That one will be going into the moving bed bio filter in the recirculating aquaculture system..

Below are a couple of pages I found helpful when looking into venturis,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wokswr...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venturi_...
http://leisure.prior-it.co.uk/venturi...

Below is an explanation of "Fine bubble aeration" along with some useful links/references,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_ae...

Hope this is of help to some out there...
For more regular updates from the chooks, worms, aquaponic & wicking gardens come visit us at http://www.facebook.com/Bitsouttheback

Have a great one all...



The Venturi effect is the reduction in fluid pressure that results when a fluid flows through a constricted section of pipe. The Venturi effect is named after Giovanni Battista Venturi (1746–1822), an Italian physicist.



The pressure in the first measuring tube (1) is higher than at the second (2), and the fluid speed at "1" is lower than at "2", because the cross-sectional area at "1" is greater than at "2".

Background

The Venturi effect is a jet effect; as with a funnel the velocity of the fluid increases as the cross sectional area decreases, with the static pressure correspondingly decreasing. 

According to the laws governing fluid dynamics, a fluid's velocity must increase as it passes through a constriction to satisfy the principle of continuity, while its pressure must decrease to satisfy the principle of conservation of mechanical energy

Thus any gain in kinetic energy a fluid may accrue due to its increased velocity through a constriction is negated by a drop in pressure.

When a fluid such as water flows through a tube that narrows to a smaller diameter, the partial restriction causes a higher pressure at the inlet than that at the narrow end. 

This pressure difference causes the fluid to accelerate toward the low pressure narrow section, in which it thus maintains a higher speed. 

The Venturi meter uses the direct relationship between pressure difference and fluid speeds to determine the volumetric flow rate.



A flow of air through a venturi meter, showing the columns connected in a U-shape (a manometer) and partially filled with water. The meter is "read" as a differential pressure head in cm or inches of water.

Relationship between pressure and flow speed

An equation for the drop in pressure due to the Venturi effect may be derived from a combination of Bernoulli's principle and the continuity equation.

Referring to the diagram to the right, using Bernoulli's equation in the special case of incompressible flows (such as the flow of water or other liquid, or low speed flow of gas), the theoretical pressure drop at the constriction is given by:
p_1 - p_2 = \frac{\rho}{2}\left(v_2^2 - v_1^2\right)
where \scriptstyle \rho\, is the density of the fluid, \scriptstyle v_1 is the (slower) fluid velocity where the pipe is wider, \scriptstyle v_2 is the (faster) fluid velocity where the pipe is narrower (as seen in the figure). This assumes the flowing fluid (or other substance) is not significantly compressible - even though pressure varies, the density is assumed to remain approximately constant.

Choked flow

The limiting case of the Venturi effect is when a fluid reaches the state of choked flow, where the fluid velocity approaches the local speed of sound. 

 In choked flow the mass flow rate will not increase with a further decrease in the downstream pressure environment. 

However, mass flow rate for a compressible fluid can increase with increased upstream pressure, which will increase the density of the fluid through the constriction (though the velocity will remain constant). 

This is the principle of operation of a de Laval nozzle. Increasing source temperature will also increase the local sonic velocity, thus allowing for increased mass flow rate.



Flow in a Venturi tube

 

 

Source: Wikipedia.org


Somebody Come and Play Today! Earn as You Learn, Grow as You Go!

The Man Inside the Man
from
Sinbad the Sailor Man
A
JMK's Production


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TTFN
CYA Later Taters!
Thanks for stopping by.

Donnie/Sinbad the Sailor Man

P.S. Sweet Sixteen My Breakout Year's Hottest and Fastest Growing Biz Op? Do You Want In? If You Do! Click Here and Sign Up!